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Clothing material knowledge - characteristics of different yarns
The feel and characteristics of textile products are mainly determined by the amount of hairiness. It is clear from the production test that hairiness of less than 2 mm in length has little effect on the quality of the production process and the appearance of the fabric, and instead gives the fabric a natural soft hand. However, hairiness over 3mm in length is a potential factor affecting yarn quality.
Different yarn twisting processes produce different yarn structures and also produce different product characteristics.
The strength of the yarn depends on the cohesion and friction between the fibers. If the shape of the fiber and its arrangement are poor, that is, the presence of fibers such as bending, looping, folding, winding, etc., it is equivalent to shortening the length of the fiber, weakening the degree of contact of the fiber, and thus easily causing slippage between fibers and reducing The yarn is strong.
It has been found through experiments that if the strength of the ring yarn is 1, the strength of the other types of yarns is 0.8 to 0.9 for the rotor yarn, 0.6 to 0.7 for the air-jet yarn, 0.8 for the vortex yarn, and 1.15 for the compact spinning strength.
The feel and characteristics of textile products are mainly determined by the amount of hairiness. It is clear from the production test that hairiness of less than 2 mm in length has little effect on the quality of the production process and the appearance of the fabric, and instead gives the fabric a natural soft hand. However, hairiness over 3mm in length is a potential factor affecting yarn quality. Compared with the conventional ring-spun yarn, the hairiness of the airflow yarn, the vortex yarn, and the compact yarn is reduced by 1 to 2 mm, and the air-jet yarn has a small number of entangled fibers, and the roving yarn core has less coverage, so that there are more short hairiness, of course. In particular, the number of hairiness can be controlled by adjusting the process parameters during the spinning process.
Comparison of the number of yarns produced for different spinning methods. Compared with traditional ring-spun yarns, the number of harmful hairiness (>3mm) of non-traditional spinning is significantly reduced, in which the compact yarn is reduced by about 80%, the air-jet yarn is reduced by about 85%, and the vortex spinning is reduced by more than 90%. The new yarns have good post-processing characteristics. Due to the new yarn structure, the yarn surface is more stable, and the amount of post-processing hairiness is significantly lower than that of conventional yarns. In particular, as a warp yarn, slurry can be saved by about 50% during sizing, which greatly improves the efficiency of the weaving machine and reduces the weaving cost. According to the information, in the United States, the cost of weaving per 100m cloth can be reduced by 2.4 US dollars and the flying flower can be reduced by 72%.
3 wear resistance
The wear resistance of the yarn is closely related to the structure of the yarn.
The conventional ring-spun yarn is mostly in the form of a spiral. When the friction is repeated, the spiral fiber gradually becomes an axial fiber, and the yarn is easily lost and disintegrated and quickly broken, so that the abrasion resistance is poor.
Non-traditional spinning has obvious advantages in wear resistance. The rotor yarn, air-jet yarn and vortex yarn are composed of two parts: the yarn core and the outer fiber. The surface of the yarn is covered with irregular winding fibers, and the yarn is not easy to disintegrate. At the same time, the surface friction coefficient of the yarn is large, and the hug between the yarn and the yarn in the fabric is good, and the relative slip is not easily generated, so the wear resistance is improved.
Compared with the ring-spun yarn, the fibers of the compact spinning are arranged neatly and straightly, the yarn structure is tight, and the fibers are not easily dispersed, so that the yarn has good abrasion resistance.
The downside is also an important characteristic of the yarn and determines some of the characteristics of the fabric, such as the ramp of the knitted fabric.
Conventional ring-spun yarns and compact yarns are true-spun yarns, which are large and easy to produce the slanting and crimping of knitted fabrics, and sometimes need to be compensated by a parallel thread.
The yarn-forming structure of rotor yarn, air-jet yarn and vortex yarn determines its small potential. The rotor yarns Z捻 and S捻 are present at the same time, so the plutonium is low. Due to the high proportion of parallel fibers in the air-jet yarn, the twisting force is small and the post-processing characteristics are also good.
The vortex yarn knit fabric has good abrasion resistance and high resistance to pilling. This is because the middle of the vortex yarn is a flat core yarn, the outer layer is wrapped with the fiber, the fiber orientation is obvious, the yarn friction coefficient is large, the friction between the inner yarn and the yarn is good, the relative slip is not easy to occur, and the wear resistance is improved. In addition, the pilling is also closely related to the condition of the yarn hairiness. Through the test pilling test, it can be seen that the vortex yarn fabric is 4 to 4.5, the air-jet yarn is 4, the conventional ring-spun yarn is 2, the rotor yarn is 2 to 3, and the compact spinning is 3 to 4.
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